Hot Springs and Hard Lessons

We ended day 6 with low energy, and our minds weren’t exactly sharp when we decided where to set up our tent the night before. The next morning, we had to pay for our lack of energy and foolishness!

We are The Bikepack, a dynamic duo from Gothenburg with an insatiable passion for cycling. We’re on a mission to show the world that biking isn’t just a means of transportation; it’s an incredible way to explore, stay fit, and have the time of your life.

Our current odyssey, the Iceland Divide, has taken us through a grueling yet exhilarating ten-day self-supported biking adventure. Picture this: wilderness, majestic glaciers, and fierce storms as our constant companions. We’ve hauled all our gear and provisions, covering a staggering 600 km with a 7,000-meter ascent.

Stormy Mornings: Surviving the Brutal Iceland Headwind

As was said, our choice of campsite could hardly have been worse! The wind had picked up during the night, and now in the morning there were storm winds outside the tent, which made us wake up in a state of surprise when the tent and tent canvas were pressed down on us.

Once the biggest shock had passed, we systematically began to break down our camp; the worst that could happen was that the tent would blow away, so our priority was that it should not happen!

With one person in the tent to weigh it down, we could pick up the rest of our gear and eventually help each other to pack up the tent so that it wouldn’t blow away from us. Phew!

Breakfast was out of the question, we each grabbed a bar and a caffeine gel from Maurten to get us going against the headwind. It was a tough start to the day, with volcanic sand, gravel, and dust swirling from the road.

Slow Miles Across Iceland’s Wild Gravel Roads

Even though we kept pushing against the headwind, we weren’t making much progress. We knew, however, that soon the road would turn right and give us a tailwind, which hopefully would make it a bit easier to get through.

We arrived at a van that had gone off the road during yesterday’s trip. We had been overtaken by rescue vehicles and met the owner of the vehicle, so everything went well. The owner was unharmed and had joked with us when we met them in another car going back to civilisation.

Cookies, Crossroads and a Risky Iceland Detour

We were offered to pick up supplies left in the van, but for us the van worked perfectly as a windbreak. Here, we got a little energy boost in the form of cookies and Snickers while we debated which way to continue.

Our planned route took a right when the road split, but this meant both more kilometers and more altitude, and what weighed heaviest in the whole decision was that we would miss a hot spring!

As you had already guessed, our planned route was at a disadvantage from the beginning and lost the vote. Blinded by the advantages of the new route, we did not consider what consequences this could entail.

Why had so few taken this route before us? Did they not know about the hot spring, or did they just prefer to cycle longer and climb more?

We were happily unaware of our fateful choice of road that would cost us dearly the day after!

Tailwinds, River Crossings and Icelandic Applause

At the crossroads, we turned left. The wind had calmed down as we descended into a valley between two larger hills that surrounded us. We waded through streams and the tourist buses had come to life; the passengers on the buses applauded as they drove by, giving us a great energy!

By choosing our new route, we had significantly shortened today’s cycling; we were unsure if we had even halved the planned distance for the day, but there and then we didn’t think about it as the sun had started to peek out and life was playing!

Landmannalaugar

At the hot spring, there was a staffed hut with showers and a kiosk.

Starting from a tough beginning to an easy and playful end with good weather and good roads, we were finally able to enjoy the hot water that Iceland is known for. We checked into the hut, a large dormitory with room for eighteen people, greeted other hikers who were there, and laughed when they passed us on the bus.

An American couple had filmed the inside of the bus and we heard how everyone had applauded and cheered us, and how they had wondered how we could have taken on such a challenge!

The kitchen was full of people, so we waited to cook, put on our swimsuits, and walked over to the much-awaited hot spring!

Iceland’s Highland Oasis

The Landmannalaugar Bathing Place is a hot spring located in the highlands of Iceland. It is one of the most popular locations in the country for bathing and relaxing, and its waters are heated by the hot springs beneath the surface. The hot spring is believed to have been formed by the combination of basalt rocks and volcanic activity, creating the perfect environment for relaxation and bathing.

After shifting our departure from the pool a number of times, it was high time to get up and cook some food. The air was cold, but as soon as we got our clothes on again we could preserve the warmth from our bath.

We took the way around the reception to inquire about the next day’s route, which, after some research, we had realized was very steep and up and down.

The weather looked to be at least nasty! The staff at the reception said that people had cycled there before and that hikers use the trail daily!

A lesson to learn is never to underestimate what the map tells you!

We plotted the route that would take us to our next hut: 22 km and 900 m of elevation gain. A lot of climbing, but a short distance; we should be able to handle it, right?

Fueling for the Storm on Iceland’s Divide

Back at the hut, the kitchen had become a bit sparse, so we managed to cook ourselves a little meal. We still had plenty of food with us, as we had packed some extra portions, as there is always a need for energy.

Sure, it adds some extra weight to the bikes, but if there is something that is worth it, it is energy that gets you where you want to go; it keeps the motivation up and the mood in check when tough situations arise.

Sated and content, we returned to the spring to enjoy a bit more of its warmth. The hut was also equipped with showers! For a fee at the reception, you could get a code to take a hot shower for five minutes, a pleasant and much-needed five minutes!

We set ourselves up for an early start to miss as much of the storm as possible. An early start also meant that we wouldn’t be in the way of other hikers who would be using the same path as us the following day!

Fresh and weary, we crawled into our sleeping bags in the large dormitory. There were a few windows that you could look out of and see the stars and the night sky.

It was a clear, starry night, but on the way was a storm that we would never forget.